The town of Exmouth is associated with one of Australia’s biggest bucket list items; swimming with the whale sharks. There aren’t many other places in the world you can swim with the world’s largest fish?… Yes, I said fish, for the Whale shark is exactly that, not a whale or shark as it’s name might suggest! Whale Shark migration and the opportunity to swim with one of these majestic creatures is seasonal and lasts from mid March till the end of September but Exmouth has so much more to offer as the gateway to the Ningaloo.
Exmouth is located on the tip of the Northwest Cape of Western Australia, approximately 1,270km north of Perth and is the hub for the stunning Ningaloo Reef. Some of the best snorkelling in the country is found here and Exmouth is a great spot to stay to take advantage of the many marine life tours available, as well stock up on supplies prior to driving out to the beach camps along the Ningaloo Coast.
We were lucky to be able to stay several weeks in National Park beach camps including South Lefroy and Winderabandi. I say luck because we didn’t book too much in advance and due to increased national travel since Covid these sites seemed almost fully booked. We found the trick was to keep checking as spots did become available if people cancelled.
It was so worth it, at South Lefroy we had a secluded spot up in the dunes. We spent several days snorkelling with the resident turtles, digging fire pits and fishing! Absolute bliss!
There was also a fascinating old whaling station to explore which we found information about at the Exmouth discovery centre!
After our beach camping we drove up the coast to Exmouth via Yardie Creek Road, through the Yardie Creek crossing, and around the tip of Cape Range National Park. The crossing is tidal and every day there is a small accumulation of travellers waiting for low tide before they cross! You can also hop in a boat or kayak to explore the gorge by water or hike it by foot in search of rock wallabies!
Once we reached Exmouth we stayed at the RAC Holiday Park. Upon arrival the place looked organised, check-in was speedy with happy staff, it looked clean and maintained. The sites are spacious, and although we stayed during their busiest time of the year, we did not feel people were camped on top of one another. The amenities are brilliant, brand new showers, cleaned regularly, we felt really comfortable.
Most of the facilities at the park are new and fresh, the camp kitchen is huge like a commercial grade kitchen with stainless steel cooking areas, plenty of dining tables and seating; a large clean space to mingle with fellow travellers. The park also features two swimming pools with the camp kitchen, dining, and BBQ areas overlooking the main pool area. the green grassed areas are well maintained and comfy sun lounges are spread out around the pool. We spent many hours at the pool with the kids, we had a great time.
For travellers, Exmouth is the perfect spot to stay and organise some of those essential chores we all need to do from time to time like getting your car and caravan serviced. It’s also a refreshing change from beach camping with hot showers and phone reception! We stopped into the local caravan centre to grab a few bits and pieces and the service was great, they have a good range of gear and if they don’t have what you need, they can arrange to get it for you. There is a Mitre 10 in town for those who need a few items to work on their mods and plenty of camping and caravan gear. The town is really set up for the nomadic traveller.
After many weeks of remote travelling, the local Whalebone Brewery was a welcome sight! We tucked into a few beers and some of the best pizzas we have had on our travels. We did spoil ourselves a little and ate there twice in three days but with plenty of eateries in and around town there is a good mix of places to go out for a feed and to socialise.
The highlight of the trip to Exmouth was Carol swimming with the whale sharks which was something she will never forget. We were booked in on a tour for the whole family but the weather had other ideas and our tour was cancelled. Fortunately, we were able to rebook, but only for one adult….rock, paper, scissors…..Carol won! Tours can be booked directly with reception at the RAC Park, you can also hire snorkelling gear and the staff are lovely and very helpful.
For the history buffs, you can spend a few days around the area learning about the town and how it evolved into what it is today. Exmouth was built to support the Harold E Holt Naval Communications Base, basically a little America in the remote Pilbara. The site was selected due to its remoteness and the less likelihood of communications being affected by other towns and cities. The Americans initially used the North West coast as a drop-off point in and out of Perth during WWII. As tensions grew in time during the Cold War and Vietnam War, the Harold E Holt Communications Base was evolving into a little America with many US and Australian serviceman and their families co-existing in the remote town. US dollars were used, Cadillac’s were driven down the right-hand side of the road, baseball was played, and American food was shipped in. It was quite the military hub for many decades. It wasn’t until the early 1990’s the base was handed over to the Australian Navy and the Americans went home. If you head up to the lookout at Cape Range Lighthouse you can still see sandbagged bunkers left from the defence systems set up back in their time. In addition, the American architecture still remains and can be viewed in and around the area.
Whilst in Exmouth we ventured to the following places which we would highly recommend:
- “The Oyster Stacks” is a brilliant place to go snorkelling on the reef. Coral and fish at your feet and great for the kids with very minimal current.
- “Turquoise Bay” is an excellent beach for snorkelling and spending a day with the family. Pack an esky and your snorkelling gear and enjoy!
- Check out the Mildura Shipwreck at the tip of the cape.
- The Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, first lit in 1912, is located just north of town and a great spot on the hill to watch the sunset and overlook the Ningaloo Reef
- Whalebone Brewery – for the best pizza!!
- Walk Yardie Creek Gorge and spot the rock wallabies!
WHERE TO STAY:
With many more caravans and vehicles on the road now with families holidaying here in Australia in lieu of overseas, the west coast appears to have become very busy. We recommend booking your stay at the RAC well in advance to avoid disappointment. Our next stay in Exmouth will be at the RAC.
COST: $72.00 per night (Peak Season with RAC Member Discount) – 2A 2C – Powered Caravan Site
FEATURES & FACILITIES: On-site Tour Desk, Convenience Store, Vehicle/trailer Wash Down, Snorkelling, Bicycle Rental, Playground, Pet Friendly, Pedal Cars, BBQ Facilities, 2 x Swimming Pools, Sun Lounges, Airport Shuttle, Laundry, Free Wi-Fi in Public Areas, Camp Kitchen, Kids Wading Pool, Games Room
South Lefroy & Winderabandi Campgrounds
COST: $19.00 per night – 2 Adults, 1Child, 1 Infant (5&under)
FEATURES & FACILITIES: Dump station, you must bring your own drinking water, you must bring your own portable chemical cassette toilet. Campfires are permitted in portable self contained fire pits only during the usual permitted season of April to October. These sites are suitable for tents, swags, rooftop tenets, off-road caravans and camper trailers. Vehicle access is for high clearance 4WD vehicles only. Access from the north to and from attractions of the Cape Range National Park requires crossing the tidal Yardie Creek on soft shifting sand. Access from the south is via a dirt track from the main highway and at times corrugated. Upon arrival you must check in with the camp host!
Safe Travels!!
Destinations